by Julie Besonen, 10/12/2011
Feta ceramic. Photo: Garrett Ziegler (via flickr)
31-14 Broadway, 718-204-8968
Greek civilization is alive and well in Astoria, where so many thousands of Hellenic immigrants put down roots in the last century that it was dubbed "Little Athens." Of the number of Greek tavernas in the neighborhood, Bahari is among the best. On display up front are freshly butchered meats, a steam table of vegetables, a large spinach pie ready for slicing and an open kitchen where whole striped bass and lamb chops are charcoal grilled. The inviting dining room is garlanded in thick nautical ropes, and its brick walls are pinned with an odd assortment of shutters. A semiprivate dining room is available for large parties, and, in fact, it's always good to go with a group. Share classically prepared, fluffy taramosalata, garlicky skordalia, fabulous moussaka and a fat slab of pastitsio—Greek-style lasagna with ground beef and béchamel.